Syrian Supper, Middle East Menus by Habib Salloum

March 7th, 2007

In Syria, the cities of Damascus and Aleppo each have distinctive dishes.

In Toronto a few years ago, we were invited to dinner by a family friend originally from Aleppo, Syria. Her mother, who was visiting, had promised to prepare an authentic meal. "It's real Aleppo food!" she said, ushering us to our seats. "I am sure it will please you!"

She was right.

Soon we were relishing Muhammara, a tasty red pepper dip; Salatat Burghal wa Jawz, a crunchy, tangy bulgur and walnut salad; Kofta Mabrouma, ground meat with pine nuts; and best of all, Kofta bil Karaz, barbecued meatballs with cherries.

This was not my first encounter with Syrian food, which is represented by the kitchens of Damascus and Aleppo.

At the posh Chahba Cham Palace Hotel, Aleppo dishes were offered at a weekly buffet. And at the modest Armenian Hagob Restaurant, dining on bare wooden tables set over sawdust-covered floors, I often relished Kuftat Alab, finishing every morsel of these barbecued spiced meatballs with grilled tomatoes.

In the heart of old Damascus, I never cease to be intoxicated by the aroma from ovens diffusing the scent of thyme and cheese pies, and succulent yakhnees, or stews. At Al-Ezz Restaurant, near Souk al-Hamidiyah, the city's famous shopping street, some of the tastiest of Damascene dishes are offered – unbelievably, for a few dollars.

In the area bordering the old city, a huge number of the traditional Damascene homes have been converted to gourmet restaurants. Here, diners can relish some of the best food in the world while they reminisce about Sinbad and his fabulous voyages.

The culinary art of Syria took shape as culture after culture flowed through the country from the misty days of early civilizations until our times. Canaanites, Hittites, Akkadians, Assyrians, Eblans, Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Armenians and Turks all left traces in the Syrian kitchen.

Damascus and Aleppo – large, rich urban centres – developed a gourmet cuisine that is not yet well known outside the Middle East. Today's better-known Lebanese and Palestinian foods are versions of those developed in Damascus and Aleppo in their days of splendour.

All Arab Middle Eastern countries (including Syria, Lebanon, Palestine and Jordan) have similar dishes, but they create different versions using slightly different ingredients and cooking methods. Certain cities throughout these countries promote their own special dishes.

In Syria, Aleppo prides itself on its cherries and meatball dish and its walnut salad (both featured below). Damascus promotes its lentils and dumpling dish (see below) plus its Ouzi (a thin phyllo-type dough wrapped in a bundle and stuffed with rice, meat, peas and spices).

Syria lays claim to a famous ice cream that is pounded by hand and fought over by Arabs and tourists alike. It's also known for scrumptous sesame-pistachio cookies called Baraziq and famous cheese balls called Shankleesh (also known as Areesh).

Kafta, eaten throughout the eastern Arab world, is famous in Aleppo because of the many spices added to the meat. The sweet Nammura, famous in Lebanon, has a counterpart in Syria called Harisat al-Lawz that's more of a thicker cake.

Here in Greater Toronto, where 15,000 of Ontario's 25,000 Syrian immigrants live, the love for Syria's traditional food remains. However, unlike their Lebanese and Palestinian brethren, they do not seem to want to expose their delicious food to others. According to Yaser Khardaji, the honorary Syrian consul in Toronto, there is no Syrian restaurant in Toronto.

Yet a gourmet traveller need not give up the search for authentic Syrian food. The Syrians are known for their hospitality and will invite friends to their homes and cook for them. Alternatively, you could try preparing a few of the tasty traditional dishes.

Beet & Tahini Dip (Shamandar Mazza)

Beets are not used extensively in the Middle East. However, the Damascenes are fond of this dip. The beets should be boiled in their skins until tender, which can take 1-1/2 to 2 hours on medium heat.

2 cups boiled, peeled, shredded beets

1/2 cup plain yogurt

1/4 cup tahini

1/2 tsp each: salt, pepper, nutmeg

1 hard-cooked egg, chopped

Place beets in medium bowl.

Thoroughly stir together yogurt, tahini, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Stir into beets. Spread on platter. Garnish with egg.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Bulgur & Walnut Salad (Salatat Burghal wa Jawz)

This Aleppo recipe is believed to be of Armenian origin. Pomegranate molasses, or concentrate, is sold in Middle Eastern shops like Nasr on Lawrence Ave. E. or Tahsin Market on the Danforth.

1 cup fine bulgur

2 cups finely chopped parsley

1 cup finely chopped green onions

1 cup finely ground walnuts

1/4 cup pine nuts

2 tbsp each: pomegranate molasses, hot water

1/4 cup olive oil

2 tbsp lemon juice

1 tsp salt

1/2 tsp pepper

1/8 tsp cayenne

Soak bulgur 10 minutes in warm water. Drain in fine strainer, squeezing out water. Put in medium bowl. Add parsley, onions, walnuts and pine nuts. Stir together.

In small bowl, dissolve pomegranate molasses in hot water. Stir in oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper and cayenne. Pour over bulgur mixture. Stir together well.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Lentil Dumplings (Harrack Isbouaau)

Unique to Damascus, this dish has the consistency of a stew or thick soup. You can buy frozen bread at the supermarket, then thaw and weigh it.

1 cup green or brown lentils, rinsed

7 cups water

1/2 lb (225 g) bread dough

2 tsp salt

1 tsp each: pepper, cumin

1/8 tsp cayenne

3 tbsp lemon juice

1/4 cup olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

Vegetable oil to taste

1/2 cup finely chopped cilantro leaves

4 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

Place lentils and water in 3-quart saucepan on medium-high heat. Bring to boil, then reduce heat to medium, cover and cook until soft, 40 minutes.

Meanwhile, roll dough to about 1/8-inch thickness on lightly floured surface. Cut in 1/2-inch squares. Add half the squares, salt, pepper, cumin and cayenne to pan with lentils. Boil 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until dough is cooked. Stir in lemon juice. Set aside, covered.

Heat olive oil in 10-inch skillet on medium heat. Turn heat to medium-low. Add onion. Fry 10 minutes or until light brown. Stir into lentils.

To same skillet, add vegetable oil to depth of 1 inch. Heat on medium-low. Fry remaining dough squares until light brown. Remove with slotted spoon and place in serving dish.

In small serving dish, stir together cilantro and garlic.

Serve lentil mixture in soup bowls. Each diner adds fried bread and cilantro mixture to taste.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Ground Meat With Pine Nuts (Kofta Mabrouma)

This is a speciality of Aleppo, where it is baked and served in a round platter, with the rolls arranged in diminishing circles. Ask your butcher to grind the lamb fine. Serve with cooked rice or fried potatoes.

2 lb (900 g) finely ground lean lamb

2 onions, finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, crushed

1 egg, beaten

1-1/2 tsp salt

1 tsp pepper

1/2 tsp allspice

1/4 tsp cayenne

1/4 cup pine nuts

1/4 cup melted butter

1/4 cup water

2 tbsp coarsely chopped parsley

1 lemon, sliced or cut in wedges

Put lamb, onions, garlic, egg, salt, pepper, allspice and cayenne in medium bowl. Stir together thoroughly. Flatten mixture to about 1/4 inch thickness, then cut into 6 rectangular pieces. Press pine nuts along longer edge, roll into sausage shape then twist into crescent. Tightly fit into greased, round, medium casserole dish. Brush with butter. Sprinkle with water.

Cover and bake in preheated 300F oven 40 minutes. Uncover and bake 20 minutes or until rolls are well-cooked.

Serve from casserole or place on warm serving platter. Garnish with parsley and lemon slices or wedges before serving. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Meatballs & Cherries (Kebab ma' Karaz)

In Aleppo, they use a special kind of bitter black cherry. Here, we substitute bottled sour cherries. (Avoid the canned cherries in thick syrup used for pies.) Bottled sour cherries are sold in Hungarian delis and Middle Eastern food shops. Serve this dish with cooked rice.

1 lb (450 g) ground lamb or beef

1/4 cup fresh breadcrumbs

2 eggs, beaten

1/2 tsp each: ground allspice, ground cumin

1 cup finely chopped onions

1 tsp each: salt, pepper

19 oz (525 g) jar pitted sour cherries

1/4 cup tomato paste

1-1/2 cups or more water

2 tbsp olive oil

Put lamb or beef, breadcrumbs, eggs, allspice, cumin, half the onions, and 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Stir together well. Form into meatballs the size of small walnuts.

Drain cherries, reserving water.

Place meatballs, remaining onions, remaining 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper, reserved cherry water, tomato paste, 1-1/2 cups water and oil in 3-quart saucepan. Bring to boil on high heat. Turn heat to medium-low, cover and cook 40 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add cherries. Cover, turn heat to low and simmer 15 minutes, or until meatballs are cooked through, adding more water if needed.

Makes 4 servings.

Semolina Dessert (Maamuneeya)

A speciality of Aleppo, this excellent, simple-to-prepare dessert can also be served as a breakfast delight.

1/4 cup unsalted butter

1 cup semolina

1 cup each: whole milk, granulated sugar

Water to taste

1 cup whipped cream

1/4 cup crushed pistachio nuts

Melt butter in 10-inch saucepan on medium-low heat. Add semolina. Stir-fry 15 minutes or until semolina turns light brown. Add milk and sugar, stirring constantly 12 minutes or until semolina is cooked into a soft paste, adding a little water if necessary.

Place on platter. Spread cream evenly over top. Sprinkle with pistachios. Serve warm.

Makes 8 servings.

Whips of Aleppo (Karabij Halab)

Superfine sugar is also known as fruit sugar; it is sold in supermarkets. Mahlab (ground black cherry pits) is sold in Middle Eastern shops. So is rose water.

1/4 cup warm water + 1-1/2 tbsp water

8 g package yeast (2-1/4 tsp)

1 tbsp + 1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup finely ground pistachios

1/4 cup superfine sugar

1 tsp rose water

1 lb (450 g) fine semolina

1/2 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 tsp mahlab

1/4 cup warm whole milk

Marshmallow cream or whipped cream to taste (optional)

In measuring cup, stir together 1/4 cup warm water, 1 tablespoon granulated sugar and yeast. Let sit 10 minutes, until frothy

Meanwhile, in small bowl, stir together pistachios, superfine sugar, 1-1/2 tablespoons water and rose water until blended.

In medium bowl, mix semolina, butter, remaining 1/2 cup granulated sugar and mahlab with fingers, blending well. Form well in centre. Pour in yeast mixture and milk. Mix with hands, then knead into dough in bowl. Cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate 30 minutes.

Form dough into walnut-sized balls. Take 1 ball and form hollow with index finger. Place 1 teaspoon pistachio mixture in hollow, then pinch to close. Shape into cylinder. Place on greased baking sheet. Pat down into oval shape. Repeat with remaining balls.

Bake in preheated 300F oven 20 minutes or until lightly browned. Cool before serving. If desired, serve marshmallow cream or whipped cream alongside for dipping.

Makes 30 to 35.

Habeeb Salloum

Mideast Menus is an occasional series exploring regional Middle Eastern foods

Habeeb Salloum is a Toronto cookbook author and recipe developer. Email him at habeeb.salloum@sympatico.ca