of education just over 5 million students - 700,000 of these university  and technical/vocational students - who attend the 17,500 schools in the country - free from kindergarten to university.  Almost every school-aged child is in one or the other of these schools - the vast majority built after 1970 when Hafiz Assad came to power.

                With the increase in education has come the advancement of women.  From being hardly noticed outside the home for many centuries, today women are to be found in all fields of daily life.  Women in Syria account for 19% of the lawyers, 12% - 169 of the judges, 30 members of parliament - more than 12%, two ministers in the government, about 10% of the diplomatic service personal and, in the last few years, 42% of university graduates.      

                At the time of the French departure, Syria was economically deprived, having only 1.75 million ha (4.3 million ac) under cultivation.  Today, the cultivated area has risen to over 6.5 million ha (16 million ac) - 1.2 million ha (3 million ac) irrigated.  In addition, the government, as well as building 154 dams -110 built after 1970 - has brought electricity to even the smallest village and provides  farmers with technical aid, tree seedlings and subsidized fertilizers.  Also, Syria has developed one of the most advanced systems in the world for the natural control of insects, virtually eliminating the use of chemical insecticides. 

                All this has transformed agriculture.  Productivity in the last few decades has doubled, tripled and more.  Syria has now achieved a surplus in the majority of food products.  >From being, in the past, an importer of grain, Syria today produces annually more than 4.8 million tons of wheat - half of which is exported - and some 900,000 tons of barley per year.  Cotton production has more than doubled in the last few years - in 2001 the annual cotton harvest reached 1 million tons, and  250,000 tons of ginned cotton are annually exported. 

                Some 64 million olive trees, which  have been planted on an ever-increasing scale in the last dozen years, produce annually nearly 1,000, 000 tons of olives and 160,000 tons of olive oil - a 10 fold increase in the last three decades - making Syria the 6th largest producer of olive oil in the world.  All these figures become more dramatic when one takes into consideration that in 28 years sugar beet production has increased over 5 fold; potatoes 8 fold; apples 20 fold; cherries 25 fold; and citrus fruits over 90 fold - now 850,000 tons.  In 1988 there were 5,177 greenhouses which, at the turn of the century, had reached more than 60,000.  Agriculture has become, after petroleum, the largest contributor to the GDP, accounting for 30% of employment and 25% of the workforce in all of Syria. 

                What capitulated Syria on the road to transformation was the 10 May 1991 Law Number 10, aimed at increasing foreign investment in the country.  Because of this Law, which has been amended several times to keep up with the economic evolvement of Syria, and investment from mostly Arab Gulf countries, the economy is beginning to improve.   At the same time, the proportion of the economy in private hands rose from 35% to more than 70%.

                To strengthen the growing investment in the country, Syria is, at present, accelerating reform in the financial sector and is in the final stages of changing rules governing foreign currency transactions.  However, the government is being very cautious in the pace of change.  To control turmoil in the emerging markets, the country's leaders are in agreement that changes must take place in the economy, but the government must be cautious in the pace of change. 

                This is echoed by some Western economists who say that Syria's financial sector is decades out of date, but must be reformed methodically.  Syria has already moved to simplify foreign exchange dealings by unifying a series of exchange rates, licensing private banks and legal changes have been made to open in Syria accounts in foreign currency. 

                Yet, in spite of some financial difficulties, goods and services are increasing and unemployment is being tackled.  Syria has paid its outstanding debts to the World Bank and in return, the IFC is planning to finance a number of privately owned projects.  More than most countries in the area, Syria's story for the last two decades is a steady climb upward.  In the period between 1978 to 1991, the middle class grew from 140,000 to 410,000 families - some 11% of the total population.

                Much of this development is due to a small but well-developed petroleum industry.  Along with the daily production of around10,000 cubic metres of gas, the oil companies produce from 500,000 to 600,000 barrels per day.  Even though exploration is going on offshore and inland, lately, oil production is beginning to decrease, but gas production is increasing.  Petroleum and its byproduct account for nearly 60% of Syria's exports. 

                A highly developed network of railways and highways now span the country.  Industrialization is expanding year after year.  Much of the consumer goods, which cram the stores throughout Syria, are made in the country.  Factories now turn out a wide range of products from fine textiles, processed foods and medicines to television sets and tractors.  Virtually everything needed by the household is home-produced.   Some of the 2.6 million tons of phosphate mined, along with agriculture produce and a number of these industrial products make up the remaining 40% of exports. 

                In the pharmaceuticals field there has been tremendous advancement.  A decade ago hardly any medical products were produced in Syria.  However, today, production of pharmaceutical products now cover almost 90% of the needs of the local market and are exported to some 38 countries.  

                However, overshadowing all else in the evolution of the country is the tourism industry which in 2004 is expected to reach more than 4 million visitors.  To facilitate the entry of travellers, Ministry of Tourism officials have been stationed at border crossings and airports.  Special tourism activities such as artistic and cultural exhibitions, international sports competitions and other leisure events are being encouraged.  The work done so far and the plans for the future indicate that, in this sector, the country  is ready for take off.           

                Syria's thousands of archaeological sites and an array of astonishing historical monuments, and the other tourist attractions are plentiful and spread throughout the country.  A pleasant climate, attractive scenery, a thriving handicraft industry, very friendly people and reasonable prices, give the country an aura of enticement - more captivating than any of the neighbouring lands. 

                In addition, in all parts of the country, the atmosphere is relaxed and safe.  Travelling in every major urban centre, even late at night, I was never stopped by anyone or felt unsafe.  Although many Western journalists attribute this to the iron hand of dictatorship, the stern hand of government alone does not tell the story.  Personal experience has taught me otherwise - the people are the secret.   

                As we drove through green fields, irrigated by the waters of  the 90 km long and 8 km wide ( 55 by 5 mi) Assad Dam - producing over 51 billion KWH - on our way to Aleppo, Ibrahim talked proudly about his people, "Everywhere in our country people are kind, helpful and friendly without being intrusive.  In the towns or countryside, a traveller always encounters warmth and politeness.  I know!  I have taken tourists around for years."

                Our driver's words were no whitewashing of the county.  In my numerous visits to this ancient land, I have often, after asking directions, been invited to a home and offered coffee followed by the phrase ‘baytna baytak’ (our home is your home).  In not only my view, but also in the opinion of the  majority of travellers who have visited Syria, the people's courtesy, dignity, kindness and hospitality are genuine.

                With this inviting background and the tremendous revival throughout the country during the last quarter century, the stage is set for a bright future.  Construction activity is to be seen everywhere.  In the capital Damascus, restoration of monuments, like the famous Umayyad Mosque, and grand old homes and palaces is in full swing.  There is a growing awareness that the country must protect its national heritage and expose this to the outside world.  Everywhere cultural activity such as festivals and the arts are encouraged.  In fact, Syria has become the leading producer of satellite television entertainment in the Arab world.

                This renovation of monuments in Damascus, along with the opening of many new eating and entertainment establishments are setting the stage for the  onslaught of tourists pouring into Syria.  At night, the footsteps of  natives and travellers echo on the ancient cobblestone streets as they enter or depart from piano bars, jazz clubs and restaurants, serving both Arab and European food - a perfect example is the night-club Marmar, housed in an 18th century caravanserai. 

                The American franchise Kentucky Fried Chicken, opened, in 1998, a restaurant in this city of some four to five million - one of the numerous branches expected to be in operation in Syria in the near future.  Coffee lovers, besides being lured by the seductive aroma of Arabic coffee in the city’s cafes and restaurants, will be happy to know that Tim Horton’s coffee is now in the middle of Damascus.  All these new establishments make Syria attractive to visitors from the Far East, the West and the Arab world - the origin of  70% of the country's tourists.

                The private sector is working hard to encourage tourism.  This is best reflected by the Cham Palaces and Hotels Company.  Established in 1983, it operates today 17 hotels throughout the country with some 7,530 beds.   Well-organized and efficient, it includes 80% of Syria's four and five star beds and is the backbone of the country's tourism industry. 

                10% of the company stock is owned by employees and this has given the staff motivation and made it productive.  The firm's chairman, Uthman al- Aidi, one of the top entrepreneurs in the world, runs this very competent organization - the corporation has increased its value some fifty-fold since it was established.  With its branches Chamtour and Chamcar, it serves the majority of the Western tourists who travel in groups or as individuals to Syria. 

                In the next 3 years, dozens of new hotels are expected to open their doors in Syria and the country is planning to increase its tourists from the 4.3 million in 2002 to millions more in the coming years.  Today, Syria has become a popular archaeological and shopping destination, especially for nationals from Iran, the former Soviet Union, Western Europe, North and South America and the Arab countries.  Government officials hope that the money spent by this flow of visitors will create many new jobs and fuel a continuation of Syria's leap into the 21st century. 

                                                                                                                                Habeeb Salloum