SYRIAN
HANDICRAFTS - A WORLD OF ORIENTAL SPLENDOUR
by
Habeeb Salloum
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To one familiar with
the machine-made products in the West, there is no more
spellbinding sight than to see artisans at work in the ancient
streets of Syrian cities. A
stroll through the souks of Aleppo or Damascus, watching craftsmen
producing their delightful works of art, is a picture postcard
from bygone ages. Since
the civilizations of Ebla, Mari and Ugarit, artisans in these two
oldest cities in the world have inherited the skill of their
forefathers. Through the centuries, generation after generation of
these accomplished craftsmen have made Syria renowned for its fine
hand-manufactured products.
At the onset of
Islam, after Damascus became the capital of a vast Arab Empire
stretching from the borders of China to the heart of France,
Syrian craftsman took their trades to the all parts of the Muslim
lands. The swords of
Toledo became as celebrated as the famed swords of Damascus.
The Syrian mosaic products, their pedigrees found in the
4,000 year-old ruins of Ebla, are still hand-manufactured in
Granada.
In later centuries,
after occupying Damascus a number of times, the Mongols carried
back with them to Central Asia many of the best master craftsmen
of Syria. The
beautiful medieval structures one sees today in Bukhara and
Samarkand were decorated by Damascene artisans brought back by
Tamerlane after he had destroyed Syria's capital.
Today, in Aleppo and
Damascus, Syrian craftsmen are continuing with the traditions of
these illustrious ancestors. In
spite of modern industry which has destroyed much of the world's
handicrafts, the Syrian artisans have, to a great extent, held the
machine at bay. Their
expertise, developed through the ages, have given them the edge to
remain a going concern. The
products they churn out are as popular today as when the Phoenicians
of Ugarit carried their hand-made merchandise to the edges of the
then known world.
In the ancient covered
souks of Aleppo, and in Damascus's, Souk al-Hamadiyah, the Street
Called Straight and the maze of connecting alleyways are the markets
in which a visitor can find these venerable products.
Craftsmen, like their fathers and grandfathers before them,
work at inlaying tables and jewellery boxes.
Others pound silver into brass and copper utensils or turn
out striking mosaic furniture, while not far away, men and women
weave, by hand, eye-catching brocades, carpets and tapestries.
In between, leather
tradesman fashion florid slippers as they watch young men pass by
hawking their showy handmade ceramic, pottery, stone or ornate straw
products, in all styles and forms, as well as embroidered articles.
Appealing to the eye, the artisan shops are a scenic world -
an irresistible invitation for passersby to enter. Tourists stand spellbound witnessing these master craftsman,
seemingly out of the ‘Arabian Nights’, at work.
Inside the larger
markets, there is a breathtaking display of oriental seductiveness. Central to the array of colourful merchandise are the
artistically scattered backgammon and chess boards, mosaic boxes,
tables and other furniture - masterpieces of handicraft art. Truly exquisite creations, inlaid with bone, ivory, lemon and
rose wood, pearl shell and, in the last few decades, with plastic,
they are as much sought after today as in the past ages.
Around them are usually exhibited attractive brass and copper
utensils, wall plates and trays, at times, inlaid with gold and silver wire - a very old Syrian handicraft.
Here and there, like glittering jewels, the hand-blown glass
articles for which Syria has long been noted, give an aura of
richness to the other artisan products. This is enhanced by the
hand-produced textile goods, the most renowned being
Damascene brocade. A
silky fabric interwoven with silver and/or gold threads in elaborate
designs, it has been much sought after for hundreds of years.
Damascene merchants are fond of telling customers that the
late mother of the present Queen Elizabeth of Great Britain, when
she was crowned, ordered a gown made from this hand-made
centuries-old brocade.
The most well-known
type in the world of textile is damask - a fabric whose name is
found in most European languages.
In English alone there are over 30 words derived from its
name which is the Arabic appellation of Damascus, Dimashk.
Its appealing intricate, floral and geometric patterns has,
since the medieval ages, made it much sought after in many parts of
the world.
Besides brocades and
damask, the hand-made aghabani, a cotton fabric embroidered
with silk, and dima, a narrow cotton textile, are other types
of cloth found in the souks. Attractive
village caftans and chic western dresses are made from these
traditional fabrics. In the ancient streets of Damascus and the 13 km (8 mi) long
stone-roofed medieval Aleppo souks they are displayed in an inviting
fashion. Within the
jumble of the labyrinth of alleyways, winding in intricate patterns
in both cities, ladies' deep crimson, blueish, and yellowish
caftans, often hand embroidered and encrusted with rhinestones, make
for a fantastic kaleidoscope of colours.
No less fascinating are
the hand-made Syrian carpets, especially those made in Aleppo with
their geometric patterns usually set in a red background -
eye-catching artistic creations acclaimed not only in Syria, but by
many visitors. Every colour in these carpets, mostly woven by young women in
simple workshops, has its symbols and its story. Often, on their surfaces, pictures of nature, holy places,
folk heros and wise sayings give them an irresistible appeal.
However, to the locals
and many tourists, the epitome of Syria's handicrafts are the gold
and silver stalls - the landmark of the Middle East since the mist
of history. A showplace
of wealth, they are always filled with men and women examining the
hand-made jewellery. Their
tasteful precious metal ornaments are modestly valued and with a
little bargaining, great buys can be found. Government controlled
prices allow for little exploitation of the buyers.
Perhaps, more than in
any other country, Syrian tradesman are still plying their trades.
However, modern industry is taking its toll - gradually
pushing the hand-made products from the markets.
Yet, in spite of this overpowering challenge, the traditional
handicrafts have not been overwhelmed.
One of the most distinguishing characteristics of Syria with
a worldwide reputation, they have been declared a national treasure,
hence, breathing new life into this world of oriental splendour.
Habeeb Salloum
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