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THE VISIT OF POPE JOHN II TO SYRIA HIGHLIGHTED THE

COUNTRY’S CHRISTIAN HERITAGE

by Habeeb Salloum

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                Not many people in the West associate Syria with Christianity.  Yet, historic Syria which for thousands of years included the area comprising modern-day Jordan, Israel, Lebanon, Palestine and Israel, is the land which saw the first glimmer of Christianity.  It was the home of Jesus and the apostles.  Within the borders of this Greater Syria, Jesus was born and performed his miracles - a fact which was emphasised in May 2001during the Pope’s visit to Syria.  

                In the last few years, the Syrian government has launched a campaign to remind tourists that Syria is the Biblical Holy Land - the birthplace of the Prophets.  According to Syrian Tourist officials, the government is seeking to highlight the country's rich Christian heritage, reasoning that history in Syria is not only in books or confined to museums, but is clearly visible to the eye.  The officials are fond of saying, ‘Jesus was born and performed his first miracle here’.

                Pope John Paul II during his visit to this oldest city in the world highlighted the Christian connection to Damascus.  During his stay, the Pope, along with Christian and Muslim leaders, visited the Umayyad Mosque - the oldest grand mosque in Islam.  It was the first time in history that the leader of the Catholic Church sets foot in an Islamic mosque.  

                The Syrians have a point when they equates Greater Syria with Christianity.   Some Biblical historians indicate that  the first miracle performed by Jesus, transforming water to wine, occurred in Qana, a village now in south Lebanon.  Saint Paul was transformed from a persecutor of Christians to a Christian Saint in Damascus and the first churches in Christianity are to be found in present day Syria.  

                On his way to Damascus to persecute the city's early Christians, the Roman Saul of Tarsus was blinded just outside the city by a light from Heaven. His companions following the direction of a message from Christ led him by hand to The Street Called Straight on which was located the House of Judas. 

                According to the story, God told the devout Christian Ananias to go to this building and enquire for one called Saul. When Ananias saw the blinded man he placed his hand on Saul's shoulder and said, "Jesus hath sent me, that thou mightiest receive thy sight, and be filled with the Holy Ghost".  Saul's vision returned and he was baptised Paul.  His conversion from an enemy of the Christian believers to one of their greatest defenders has ever since been equated to a dramatic change of faith.

                From that era, there remains the underground Chapel of Saint Ananias, located in Bab Touma - the old Christian quarter in Damascus.  Called by the Arabs Kanissat (Church of) Hananiyah, it stands about 5 m (16 ft) below ground and is presumably the cellar of the House of Ananias. 

                Restored many times, it is the only early Christian house of worship from the first century to survive in the city. A simple structure consisting of two small rooms with bare stone walls, it houses only an altar, some icons and a few pews.  It represents the simplicity of the initial Christians and is one of the earliest still standing churches where services continue to be held.

                From the church, it is only a few minutes walk to Bab Keissan (Keissan Gate), or as it is often referred to, Saint Paul's Window.  Legend has it that from this gateway, while fleeing from the Roman soldiers trying to kill him, Saint Paul was let down at night in a basket by his disciples.  An early church, now in ruins, once stood near this gate where it is believed the basket landed. The historical significance of the Window attracts annually thousands of tourists.

                In Maloula, 40 km (25 mi) north of Damascus, the soft spoken priest of the Greek Catholic Monastery of Mar Sarkis, speaks with pride of his church, claiming that it is erected on the spot where the first house of worship in Christendom was built.  One of the original stone altars in the Christian world - a modified version of an earlier pagan sacrificial slab, is to be found in the Monastery's chapel.  Here, the Lord's Prayer is still recited in Aramaic -  the language spoken by Christ, but only singularly known only to the residents of Maloula and the two adjoining villages of Bakh`a and Jub`adin.

                Famous among the Christians of the East, Saydnaya, 30 km (19 mi) north of Damascus, is a 6th century convent dedicated to the Blessed Virgin.  Its tiny chapel, the most important of the holy spots in the nunnery, has its walls covered with old icons of the Virgin and other saints - a number painted between the 5th and 7th centuries.  Hidden away among these sacred paintings is the most priceless treasure of the Convent - one of the four icons of the Virgin attributed to Saint Luke. 

                Among the top sacred sanctuaries in the Orient, for Orthodox Christians, Saydnaya follows Jerusalem in importance as a place of pilgrimage.  Its popularity is augmented by the miracles which the Holy Virgin is reputed to bestow on people irrespective of their religion.  Thousands from all parts of the world travel to this nunnery seeking the blessing of Saint Luke's icon.  This is especially true among the eastern Christians.  For them to visit this Convent is relatively equivalent to making a pilgrimage to Jerusalem.

                With this strong Christian connection to Syria, it s no wonder that the Pope was pleased during his visit to that country.  He, like many in Syria, believe that Christian history still lives in that ancient Biblical land.  As he is chaperoned inside the splendid Umayyad Mosque by the Grand Mufti of Syria, Sheikh Ahmad Keftaro and the Greek-Melkite Archbishop of Syria, Isidore Battikha, Syria’s religious tolerance became much better known to the outside world. Photographed in the Umayyad Mosque at the Tomb of Saint John the Baptist - sacred to both Christians and Muslims - the Pope highlighted Syria’s connection to the Christians across the globe.                                                                                                               Habeeb Salloum

 
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